Rock-hewn churches of Ethiopia

Abune Yemata, accessible only by a vertigo-inducing climb, and Lalibela’s monolithic rock churches continue to draw devoted priests and pilgrims.

Full story after the images.

Abune Yemata Guh: A Cliffside Sanctuary of Faith

Carved into the sandstone cliffs of the Gheralta Mountains in Ethiopia’s Tigray region, Abune Yemata Guh is one of the world’s most extraordinary places of worship. Perched at an altitude of 2,580 meters (8,460 feet), this monolithic church is accessible only by a daring climb involving sheer rock faces, narrow ledges, and natural stone bridges.

Believed to have been founded in the 6th century by Abuna Yemata, one of the Nine Saints who helped spread Christianity in Ethiopia, the church is renowned for its isolation, spiritual significance, and stunning preservation. Its interior features vibrant 15th-century frescoes depicting biblical scenes, apostles, and saints, painted with natural pigments derived from local minerals and plants.

Despite its remote location and perilous approach, Abune Yemata Guh remains an active site of worship, drawing pilgrims and visitors who seek both spiritual connection and awe-inspiring views. The church’s integration with the surrounding rock formations creates a profound harmony between nature, architecture, and devotion.

Joel Santos was there in 2024 to shoot a television documentary, marking the culmination of a series of projects in Ethiopia that began in 2015. What left a lasting impression was witnessing women carry newborn children up this vertigo-inducing path, driven by faith and devotion, to reach the church carved into the rock. It was a humbling testament to the spiritual gravity of the place and the resilience of those who worship there.

Faith in Stone: The Monolithic Churches of Lalibela

High in the rugged mountains of northern Ethiopia lies Lalibela, a sacred city carved from stone and steeped in centuries of devotion. Commissioned in the 12th century by King Lalibela, the eleven monolithic churches were hewn directly into the volcanic rock as a symbolic “New Jerusalem” for Ethiopian Christians who could no longer travel to the Holy Land. These architectural marvels— connected by a labyrinth of tunnels, trenches, and passageways — stand as a testament to the ingenuity, faith, and resilience of a civilization determined to preserve its spiritual identity.

Each year, tens of thousands of Ethiopian Orthodox Christians embark on pilgrimages to Lalibela, especially during major religious festivals like Genna (Ethiopian Christmas) and Timket (Epiphany). Many travel for days or weeks on foot, wrapped in white cotton shamma cloths, singing hymns and carrying crosses. Their journey is not merely physical — it is a profound act of devotion, echoing the footsteps of ancestors who have made the same pilgrimage for generations. The churches, still active places of worship, resonate with the chants of priests and the quiet prayers of the faithful, creating an atmosphere that feels suspended in time.

For the pilgrims, Lalibela is more than a destination — it is a spiritual homecoming. The sight of Biete Giyorgis, the cross-shaped Church of Saint George, emerging from the earth like a divine sculpture, evokes awe and reverence. Inside the dimly lit sanctuaries, incense curls through the air, and ancient murals whisper stories of saints and sacrifice. In this sacred enclave, carved from stone and sustained by faith, the past and present converge, offering pilgrims a tangible connection to their heritage and a reaffirmation of their spiritual path.